Testina

Best bacon ever.

While doing a stage at Perigee, I was given a knife, and given the go ahead to go to town on a fresh pigs head. This was a first, and a great learning opportunity. With a little time, guidance and intuition I made it through. I had picked apart pigs heads before for headcheese at C5, but the meat was always fall off the bone and easy to pick thorough. The muscle structure, cooked or raw, is still the same.



This head came in from Cumbraes, fresh and in great condition, with lots of unexpected mean from the neck flaps. My sis was in town so I did the first half, and handed over the reigns for her to learn as well. The concept is pretty simple, skin the head with as much meat attacked as possible and roll it up for a long slow braise. The hair has to be burned off, deep into the follicles. It is easiest to use a torch and wipe out the roots with a rag. Remove the ears, as they are only cartilage and skin, and not so pleasant to eat even when soft. The skinning process is simple in concept, just follow the bone closely and try to keep the meat on the skin. There are a few hidden gems, like the temples and under the jaw. If you miss something, you can always add it in later, as it is all going to be rolled up in a tea towel anyways. Once skinned, half it down the center of the face, and lay each piece flat.


Even out the meat but cutting down the jowls or any other large pieces of meat to even out the fat content trough out. Liberally salt the inside, and I used nutmeg as traditional seasoning. Roll tightly in a towel, tying the ends. I also used a butcher knot to make sure the shape is even. Allow the cure in the fridge overnight. You could also brine the meat to remove some of the swiney flavour, but I enjoy that aspect of pork flavour.


I prepared the pockhng liquid with mirepoix and traditional spices.
10 carrots
3 onions
5 celery stalks
3 cloves garlic
cinnamon
allspice
black pepper corns
bay leaves
juniper berries
star anis
salt to taste


Make sure the liquid is properly seasoned before adding the pork (cross contamination and all that). Add enough water just to cover, and bring to just under a gentle simmer. I left it on over night, then pressed them under a sheet pan and heavy weight for another day. This ensured a nice even shape.




The testina has a really mellow flavour thought. The fat became really creamy and smooth, with the same amount of seasoning and flavour as the meat. To make a really nice bacon, cut thin strips from frozen and make between two sheet pans until crisp. Alternatively fresh thin slices on toast are great any time of day (especially after home from the bar). For breakfast I enjoy a nice thick tranche seared on both sides, crispy on the outside and creamy soft on the inside. I have a freezer full of the stuff, so I will be enjoying it for a long while.